Tsetserleg: Mongolia's Monastery Town Amidst the Khangai Mountains
A Visit to TsetserlegEvery now and then, I find myself in a remote corner of the world that makes me wonder why I ever left my cozy armchair. Tsetserleg, a small town in central Mongolia at the foothills of the Khangai Mountains, is such a place. Situated some distance from the well-trodden tourist trails, Tsetserleg is not the kind of destination one stumbles upon by accident, but rather by a series of poor life decisions and an inordinate amount of vodka.Getting There: Bumpy Roads and Questionable VehiclesReaching Tsetserleg is no easy feat, but as a stalwart traveler with a sense of adventure (and questionable sanity), I was up for the challenge. The journey typically begins in the capital city of Ulaanbaatar, which itself is an experience best described as a delightful mix of chaotic traffic and choking pollution. From there, one could either take a bone-jarring bus ride or a nail-biting flight to reach Tsetserleg. I opted for the former, as there's nothing I love more than spending hours crammed into an ancient Soviet-era bus with questionable suspension.The road to Tsetserleg is an adventure in itself, with potholes the size of small craters and the occasional livestock crossing for good measure. The stunning scenery of the Khangai Mountains and the ever-present odor of fermented mare's milk mingling with diesel fumes made for a memorable trip, to say the least.Exploring the Monastery TownUpon arrival, I was immediately struck by the town's charming atmosphere and the warm hospitality of its people. Tsetserleg is home to just over 16,000 inhabitants, which makes it feel like a bustling metropolis compared to the vast emptiness of the surrounding Mongolian steppe. Its main claim to fame, however, lies in its monastic heritage.The town is dominated by the Zayain Gegeenii Sum monastery, which was established in the 16th century and once housed over 1,000 monks. Today, the monastery complex has been transformed into a museum, where one can learn about the fascinating history of Buddhism in Mongolia while admiring the beautifully restored buildings. I particularly enjoyed the intricately carved wooden columns and the colorful thangka paintings that adorned the walls. The museum also houses a collection of religious artifacts, including a three-meter-tall statue of the Buddha, which sits serenely overlooking the town.Other Attractions in and Around TsetserlegDespite its small size, Tsetserleg offers a surprising number of attractions for the intrepid traveler. Among these is the Bulgan Mountain, a formidable peak that looms over the town and provides a lovely backdrop for evening strolls. A hike to the top rewards the adventurous with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and a chance to visit the small ovoo (a traditional Mongolian shrine) that sits at the summit. The climb is not for the faint-hearted, however, as the trail is steep and poorly marked, with the occasional rogue yak thrown in for good measure.For a more leisurely excursion, one can visit the Tsenkher Hot Springs, located about 30 kilometers from Tsetserleg. These natural springs are believed to have healing properties and are a popular spot for locals and tourists alike. Soaking in the steaming waters while gazing at the snow-capped peaks of the Khangai Mountains is a truly invigorating experience, although I have to admit that I was somewhat taken aback by the communal nudity. Nevertheless, I valiantly disrobed and joined my fellow bathers in the name of cultural immersion.Delights of the Local CuisineNo visit to Mongolia would be complete without sampling the local cuisine, which largely consists of mutton, dairy products, and more mutton. In Tsetserleg, however, I was pleasantly surprised to discover a thriving culinary scene that included such exotic offerings as pizza and even a vegetarian café. Of course, I couldn't resist indulging in some traditional Mongolian specialties, such as airag (fermented mare's milk) and boortsog (deep-fried dough). My taste buds may never be the same again, but my memories of Tsetserleg's gastronomic delights will last a lifetime.A Fond FarewellAs I prepared to bid Tsetserleg goodbye, I couldn't help but feel a pang of sadness. The town, with its rugged charm and warm-hearted residents, had won me over, and I knew that I would always treasure my time spent there. The journey back to Ulaanbaatar, however, was another story altogether – but that's a tale for another time.
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